Paris Portfolio: Le Baron Rouge Wine Bar

Welcome to the first of many installments in my new “Paris Portfolio” series! Each article will profile a favorite place or secret discovery from the times my wife and I have spent in Paris. Some will be “Under the Radar” spots that many tourists never see. Others will be well-known destinations viewed in different ways. And I’ll illustrate them with my own visible-light and Digital-Infrared photos… to make the places even more real.

Kate and I are frugal travelers, but we always have a great time. This is because we seek out the real Paris (or Rome, Florence, or Ireland). We see the big attractions, of course, but then find the places where the locals go. Above all, we enjoy the people who call these places home and make them such popular destinations. And I hope you too will love visiting Paris through these articles… and will use them to plan your own adventures in this dazzling City of Light.

Mini-“Cheers” in the 12^th Arrondissement

First up is our favorite Paris wine bar … Le Baron Rouge. It’s the kind of old-style Parisian hangout one dreams of finding … rustic, dimly lit, a little rough around the edges, and a place where locals outnumber tourists. You’re more likely to share the spartan floor plan with Parisians wearing jeans and flannel shirts than with people from packaged tours. We were there in November, but in better weather, hundreds of folks apparently pack the sidewalks and tables outside, wiling away the hours and watching for celebrities.

We went there for dinner after visiting the Eiffel Tower for the first time. From the Tower’s Champs des Mars district, we caught the #69 bus to the Place de la Bastille, where we got off and walked up Rue de Faubourg Saint Antoine toward the Baron Rouge.

As we entered, our eyes locked onto the big oak barrels to our left. They’re fed from 600 liters of wine stored in the basement (which is regularly replenished by huge delivery trucks). So the wine is bought in bulk and is very inexpensive straight from the barrels. (When we were there in the off-season, it ran about 2-6 euros per liter… much less than most other restaurants would charge.) This being Paris, you can consume your bottle there, or take it home. (If you don’t have a bottle, you can “borrow” one for a mere 50 cents.) And the wines themselves are honest estate-grown French varietals that are enjoyed by honest Parisians every day. What better way to sample French vintages?

Good Wine and Light Fare

I bellied up to the old zinc counter and ordered a pichet de vin (pitcher) of Touraine Pinot Noir 2006 and the Grand Assiette de Fromage (mixed cheese plate with thick baguette slices and butter). While I did that, Kate found empty banquette seats at a table in the corner, and her perch was decidedly better than mine. A big hole in the vinyl upholstery beneath me let foam stuffing and large springs poke through. (As I said… the place is a little rough around the edges.) But no matter, the cheese plate arrived with a substantial wedge of semi-hard cheese, half a good-sized round of triple-crème, and an aromatic bleu goat cheese. They were the kind of real cheeses so rarely found in the U.S…. nonpasteurized, ripe, and delicious. And our repast totaled all of 24 euros (10 for the wine; 14 for the food). A cheap dinner for two in this town.

As befits a bar à vin, Le Baron Rouge’s food menu may be a bit limited for some tastes. It’s finger food to accompany the wine. Our mixed cheese plate was both delicious and filling, but (depending on the season), you may prefer to try cornichons (French gherkins), prosciutto, Parma ham, pâtés, or oysters.

So if you want some delicious French fare and good inexpensive wines, in a place where few people carry guidebooks, I heartily recommend Le Baron Rouge.

Strangely, to research this atmospheric little hole-in-the-wall, you might want to Google two names: “Baron Rouge” and “Baron Bouge.” The place opened in 1979 as the “Baron Rouge,” but when someone threatened to sue over this use of the famous WW1 flying ace’s name, management just shrugged and painted the base of the “R” to turn it into a “B” (on both their sign and awning). And you’ll find both names used all over Paris and the Web.

Le Baron Rouge is at 1, rue Théophile Roussel, in the 12^th arrondissement… near the Ledru-Rollin Metro stop, the Place de la Bastille, and the lively Marché d'Aligre outdoor market.

Le Baron Rouge: Trip Advisor Reviews

The Place de la Bastille: Wikipedia Page

The Ledru-Rollin Metro stop: Wikipedia Page

The Marché d'Aligre outdoor market: Trip Advisor Reviews